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Sally Holmes Climbing Rose
Sally Holmes Climbing Rose


 
Truly One of the Greatest Roses of All Time.

Big clusters of dainty flowers turn from apricot to white to rose.

Large, wide-open white flowers with yellow stamens provide a dramatic, dominant presence in your garden or floral display. One of the most celebrated and popular roses of all time. Prolific as a shrub or as a climber, Sally Holmes Climbing Rose draws attention with its magnificent size and beauty.

Resembling hydrangea heads, Sally Holmes Climbing Rose with huge bloom clusters open from buff-colored buds into spectacular single, white flowers, each composed of only 5 to 8 soft, subtly wrinkled petals. The creamy 3- to 4-inch blooms debut in masses in late spring, flourishing until fall.

Sally Holmes Climbing Rose is vigorous and adaptable to temperature extremes, including stifling heat, and is quite resistant to pests and disease. Sally Holmes Climbing Rose is nearly thorn-less, making Sally Holmes Climbing Rose a good choice on arbors and pergolas where guests may brush against its canes.

Flushed with apricot in the spring, the blooms are at their whitest and brightest in the summer before acquiring a rosy-pink tint late in the season. What a sight they are on the garden floor as they fall, creating a rich pool of color.

Sally Holmes Climbing Rose thrives in well-drained soil and full sun, but is tolerant of some shade. Dramatic in clusters, Sally Holmes Climbing Rose produces beautiful, highlighted single flowers on side branches. Do make Sally Holmes Climbing Rose part of your garden.

Rose Type: Hybrid Climber
Flower Color: Light pink, white
Height/Habit: 6-12'
Blooms/Petals: 3 - 4" 8 petals
Foliage: Dark green, Glossy
Fragrance: Light, sweet
Sun Exposure: Full Sun, part shade
Disease resistant, heat tolerant

 

Description
 

Roses Growing in Plastic Containers



Roses grown in plastic containers can be planted year-round. They are easiest to plant because you have a plant that is already growing.



1. Thoroughly water before planting.



2. Remove plant from the container by squeezing the container, laying it on its side, and then gently sliding out while keeping the root ball intact.



3. Dig hole twice the diameter of the root ball and as deep.



4. Mix soil conditioner or compost with the soil dug out from the hole.



5. Set the plant in the hole making sure to position the graft union at or just above the ground level. In cold winter climates, position the graft union 1-2" below the ground level.



6. Fill in around the root ball with soil mix, eliminating all air pockets by packing down.



7. Water thoroughly and apply a thick layer of organic mulch around your new plants to conserve moisture.



Watering Roses



• Newly planted roses need more frequent watering than established plants. A sign of wilting foliage in the morning signals the need for water. Thoroughly soak the root ball and surrounding soil. As the plant roots grow out into the surrounding soil, watering frequency can be reduced.



• Water established roses only when they need it, thoroughly allowing water to seep deep into the root system. Too much watering wastes water and pushes nutrients away from the plant roots which can lead to excessive weeding, fertilizing and pruning. Frequent light watering encourages a shallow root system that is not as prepared to handle the rigors of prolonged drought. Water plants early in the day to minimize water loss due to evaporation. Avoid wetting foliage, especially in the evening, to reduce disease problems.



• Roses growing in patio containers usually require more frequent watering than plants in the ground. Be sure that all pots have drainage holes to prevent overwatering. Check plants often and be sure to wet the soil thoroughly until the entire root ball is saturated and water runs from the drainage holes.



• In the hot summer months, roses need water only when they show signs of stress in the morning, which is expressed as curled or drooping leaves and branches. At this time of the year, some plants exhibit minor wilting in the afternoon that is natural as long as rigor is regained by morning.



• Drip irrigation systems and soaker hoses are a great way to effectively water roses while conserving water, reducing your water bill, and promoting disease free plants.



Fertilizing Roses



• Be sure your roses are well watered prior to application of fertilizer.



• Fertilize roses in early spring once the chance of frost has passed and just before new growth begins. Additional light feedings can be applied throughout the growing season to encourage growth and flowering. Frequency depends on the type of fertilizer used. Always follow package directions.



• Stop feeding in late summer to enable tender new growth to mature before winter.



• As a general rule, apply dry fertilizers (non-foliar-feed) on the soil between the trunk and the drip line (end of the branches). Always keep dry fertilizers away from the canes to prevent burning.



Pruning Roses



Prune Hybrid Tea, Floribunda and Grandiflora roses 3 to 4 weeks before the average date of the last killing frost in your area.



• Remove 1/3 to 2/3 of the plant to stimulate new growth and flower production.



• Remove canes that are damaged and one of two canes which may be rubbing one another.



• Remove canes that are spindly and smaller in diameter than the size of a pencil.



• Prune to open the center of the plant to light and air circulation.



• Make your cuts at a 45 degree angle, about 1/4 inch above a bud that is facing toward the outside of the plant.



• Use sharp pruning shears to make sure cuts are clean, not ragged.



• Remove sucker growth below the graft union and those sprouting from the roots. The leaves will be different, so it's easy to identify them.



Climbing roses should not be pruned for the first two years. They need time to grow long canes for flower production. After that time, remove old canes to encourage new canes to arise from the bottom of the plant. The finest blooms on climbers appear on canes that were produced the previous year.



Shrub and Antique roses require much less pruning. Most shrub roses will naturally obtain a rounded shrub shape without pruning. Pruning of these roses should be confined to shaping of the plant, removal of damaged branches and judicious trimming back to encourage growth. This can be done in spring after first bloom is complete.



On all roses, cutting flowers is a form of pruning. When gathering rose blooms, always leave at least two sets of leaves on the branch from which you cut the flower to insure plant vigor. When removing faded, spent flowers, cut only as far back as the first leaf with five leaflets.


Parrans stock a very large inventory of flowers, hanging baskets, containers and vegetables. However we cannot guarantee availability of specific plants. Shop early in the season for best selection.